DIY Easy Vinyl Wrap Method



A lot of sailors like the dark brown teak or mahogany look that is so popular. I envy them. Although I have an easy method for rewrapping the interior, it’s still nowhere near as easy as simply enjoying the way it already looks.
In the pilot house and salon I chose to also paint the trim white, as well as portions of the headliner and settee bases. The three vinyl designs used here are cooler tones and would clash horribly with the brown trim. It still clashes with the beige, but not as bad. Moving forward of the salon the trim can remain factory original as the vinyl chosen for that area is a warmer tone.
I don’t recommend the “faux teak decking” you see on the pilot house sole. It’s very hard to keep clean without taking it out and hosing it down. It worked phenomenally on the nav desk and “dash” though.



The Easy Vinyl Wrap Method
Have you seen the videos on YouTube where a dude will apply a 24 inch wide strip of vinyl, over a highly contoured car fender? Heat gun and squeegee somehow automatically replace each other in one hand while the other is steadily smoothing the wrap onto the surface. I can’t even do that on a flat surface. Vinyl somehow sticks to anything with instant adhesion, particularly when attaching to itself. Let’s not even start about air bubbles. Right?
The Solution
Before we even get into the secrets of the method, Vinyl selection should first be covered. A rule of thumb is that the thicker the vinyl, the easier it is to apply. Luckily, the price does not seem to reflect the thickness. Quality varies greatly among the lower cost varieties. I get lucky sometimes, other times I’ve come across poor adhesion, visible pixelation and wrap so brittle it cracks…. If you want to get guaranteed high quality, go with the DC-Fix brand.
The design or pattern is the other important aspect of the vinyl itself. Lengthwise wood grains are much preferred if you value ease of installation. Stone finishes, burls and other “non linear” patterns have to be applied in full width pieces, which can be daunting to handle. “Linear” patterns can be cut into smaller strips. Once installed the “seams” between pieces fade, and the strips blend together naturally.
Application
CLEAN the surface before applying the vinyl. ESPECIALLY the sides and back. I use acetone. I don’t know if that’s wise or recommended but it seems to work. Soap and water with a rinse/repeat method would likely do just as good a job. Cutting the vinyl into six inch wide strips makes for a simple application. Applying it “lengthwise, rather than the more common vertical direction is just a personal choice. Removing the doors altogether and taking the hinges off is definitely easier than the way I’m showing you here. I did do that in the galley, but wanted to try out this less patience requiring approach.
For the doors, make your strips a couple inches longer than the door. Apply it gradually from one end to the other while peeling back the liner. Leave about an inch overhang. Carefully cut away the corner of the wrap as pictured, so it aligns with the side and top of the door. Scissors and an Exacto knife are recommended. Starting from the hinged side, fold the wrap around the front edge of the door and press it down hard on both surfaces. work the wrap between the door and the cabinet and wrap it around the back, again pressing down hard around the corners. I use the of back my thumbnails for pressing. A plastic tool of some kind would likely be wiser.

Once the three sides are in place trim the excess with the Exacto knife. and continue down the door until reaching the dreaded collar around the “handlehole”. I’ll admit, I’ve been trying to develop a method to go around these but it’s nowhere near perfect. I start with covering just a small portion of the collar, ensuring that the wrap makes it all the way in the inside corner between the collar and door face. This is where my thumbnails come to use, but a plastic knife or small spatula would likely suffice.

Once thoroughly pressed in, cut away a small portion as pictured. Then continue pressing down another small section, followed by tracing out the excess with the Exacto knife. It’s better to leave too much vinyl than too little.
Take your time going around the perimeter of the collar and make sure to cut less than necessary rather than more. Once you’ve made it all the way around it’s much easier to “trace” the outline of the collar with the tip of the blade.

The doors are the hardest part. The facia sections go much faster since they just need to be applied and wrapped around to the back. Make each strip about an inch too long. Peel back just an inch of the liner and attach the sticky end while holding the entire piece (horizontally) aligned and with equal excess on both sides. Apply it gradually from one end to the other while peeling back the liner. Thoroughly press down hard into the corners. Finally, trace the Exacto knife down the inside corner to trim off the excess vinyl.





The final secret to a clean and neat looking end result is to caulk all the inside corners which is not yet done on these closet doors, but the salon is caulked all the way around as pictured above right. Click any of the pictures on this page to zoom in.
